Breed Information,

Breed Information,
This dog is famous in England for its use in fox hunting packs. It is rarely seen in the home environment, but does not mean its not slowly coming more popular.
The average lifespan of a Foxhound is 12 years but, with good care and nutrition, can live up to 14 years of age.
The ideal height for the bitch is 58cm and should weigh up to 33kg, while the male is normally 69cm and weighs up to 39kg.
Active, friendly, and extremely alert, these dogs make very affectionate pets. Even in the pack environment they are always friendly to humans and tend to greet each person with a wagging tail.
Although bred to live as part of a pack, these loving animals do make affectionate house pets and will get on well with any other animals in the home with training as for any dog.
Being short coated they are easy to keep clean using either a hand-grooming glove or a leather to remove any dirt from the coat. They need exercise, but in the house will be happy to just 'hang out' without fuss. They do however possess a very powerful roaming instinct so training them to come when called is a priority from an early age. The Foxhound is an ideal companion for those wanting the challenge of training a smart and willing companion.
These happy dogs will fit in with people in most situations so long as they are given plenty of love, affection and exercise. These dogs will be happiest when given a sizeable backgarden  to explore and taken for a good walk every day. A ideal owner should be willing to put the time in with this breed as they are clever and sociable. They would enjoy the mental work dog training classes would bring them. 
The Foxhound standard.

Taking from The Master of Foxhounds as these hounds should still be able to their job
Head;should be full size but by no means heavy, pronounced brow but not high or sharp, ears should be set on low and lying close to cheeks, teeth must meet squarely, either undershot or overshot can be disqualification,

but if hound has hunted it should not be disqualified for it having teeth missing due to injury as bite would still be correct, if teeth were there.
 should be long and clean, it should taper nicely from shoulders to head, the upper outline should be slightly convex.
should be long and well muscled without being heavy,
 Chest and back:
this hound should have a good depth in chest for great lung capacity for endurance back should be muscular either level top line or wheel-back are favored as sign of strength, back should never be dipped.
 should be well set on, never curled over back like huskies.
are the driven force behind this hound, so should be very strong, stifles should be moderately bent , not as bent as a Greyhounds, as this hound is for endurance rather than a bust of speed.

 Elbows; set straight and neither turned in nor out.

 Feet and legs;
 MFHA insists on legs as straight as posts and as strong, size of bone at ankle being especially regarded as all important, knuckling over is not favored. The bone cannot be too big and the feet, in all cases should be round and catlike,.

 Coat and colours;
  not regarded as important as feet and legs, all good hound colours are acceptable with preferences coming from hunt or breeders own favourites. Colours black, tans and whites or any combinations of these three, also seen are “pies” with white and colour of hare badger, yellow, tan. Texture can be smooth or wire as long as short, dense, hard and glossy.

The Foxhound; in brief
Sociability - dogs:
Sociability - other pets:
Sociability - strangers:
Exercise needs:
Grooming needs:
Suitability to cold:
Suitability to heat:
Watch dog capability:
Guard dog capability:
Common Problems
Dog Separation Anxiety,  Foxhounds are very sociable creatures and thrive on company for many reasons. If your hound had a choice he/she would spend every bit of his time with you. So it’s only natural that when you go out, your Foxhound can experience varying degrees of distress and anxiety. He becomes confused, vulnerable, doesn’t know where you are going, why he can’t be with you and if you will be coming back to him. When you are separated all he wants is to be reunited with his pack – which is you.
Punishment is never the answer

Does Your Foxhound Suffer From Separation Anxiety?

There’s every chance your hound is suffering from a Separation Anxiety disorder rather than another dog behavior problem if:

1. Your dog gets really worked up and anxious when you are preparing to leave the house. Things like picking up your car keys or putting on your coat can trigger the behavior.

2. Your Hound engages in inappropriate behavior only when you are separated. behavior such as urinating inside, excessive barking and destructive behavior are common symptoms of Separation Anxiety in dogs.

3. Your hound follows you everywhere you go and immediately becomes distressed if he can’t be near you.

4. When you arrive home  is he over the top with his greeting and takes a while to calm down.
Why Do Dogs Suffer From Separation Anxiety?
* Straight after a change in routine. Such as your work hours changing or a family member leaves home. Remember dogs are creatures of habit and any changes can be very unsettling to them.
* If you have been on vacation or unemployed for some time and have been spending heaps of time with your dog. When you go back to work your dog becomes anxious and distressed.
* Unfortunately dog’s rescued from animal shelters contribute a highly disproportionate number of Separation Anxiety cases.
* After your dog experiences a traumatic event while on his own. If a thunderstorm lashes your home while your dog is alone, this can trigger Separation Anxiety in the future.
* If your dog is rarely left alone and becomes overly reliant on his pack.
* When you move house to a new neighbourhood.

How Does Dog Separation Anxiety Manifest Itself?

* Barking
* Whining
* Licking
* Destructive Behavior
* Chewing
* Howling
* Panic Attacks
* Digging
* Inappropriate Urinating
* House Soiling
* Self Mutilation
* Escaping
* Diarrhea
* Loss Of Appetite
* Excessive Salivation
* Vomiting
* Jumping Through Windows
* Crying

What Can You Do To Help Your Hound Overcome Separation Anxiety?

The treatment administered to your Hounds separation anxiety problem depends on its severity. You will find lots of theories and suggestions regarding the correct way to treat separation anxiety.
for help with these problems contact a local trainer or behaviourist for help as each animal suffers differantly and you'l need to work on a plan that best suits your Foxhound.
 A few people have contacted myself concerning their young hounds and Food guarding. it is't a breed thing most breeds Food guard it's because they think it's worth keeping??  some things to think about!
 How can I stop FOOD guarding?
This is the most common type of resource guarding. It is usually easy to spot and occurs when a dog is aggressive (or threatens to be) when approach whilst eating from their food bowl. It can also occur when an owner attempts to retrieve food items snatched or found by the dog. Dogs are also known to guard their empty food bowls.
First things first, disciplining your dog for food guarding, is more likely to aggravate the problem than cue it. Using harsh discipline often results in the dog deciding that it needs to be even more aggressive to retain this resource.
The reason a dog guards its food is the fear that the approaching person is going to take it away. So we need to remove that fear and create positive associations with people approaching its food. The best way to achieve this is to tempt your dog away from its bowl with an even tastier resource (i.e. its favourite treat). Do this in small steps and start by keeping a distance from the food bowl. Let your dog take the treat and return to its bowl. Over a number of sessions, gradually get closer to the bowl to the point were you can drop the treats into its bowl. Further develop this by offering the treats right  next to the bowl whilst the dog is eating. Different people should carry out these exercises to avoid the positive associations only being related to one person and the dog continues to guard when others approach.

Another useful exercise, particularly to prevent food guarding, is to feed your dog in small instalments. This is where you feed your dog a small amount of its food, and then take the bowl away to add more food. Repeating this 3-4 times until its  meal is finished. Again, this exercise helps build positive associations as your dog soon learns that when the bowl is taken away, it is going to be returned with more food.

How can I stop TOY & OBJECT guarding?

Guarding of this nature usually relates to dog toy and dog chews, but can also relate to more obscure items such as

laundry, tissues, food wrappers or objects found by the dog or have a particular smell.

As with food guarding, we need to look to building positive association around people approaching the guarded objects.

We want the dog to understand that approaching people and the removal of objects means more fun, excitement or a

special treat.

A good place to start is by approaching your dog whilst near an unguarded low value object. Pick up the object with one

hand then produce a treat from behind your back with the other. Then give the object back and walk away. Repeat this,

but change the angle of approach and intervals between approaches. Work on this over a number of sessions, then change the exercise so that as you offer the object back to the dog, as soon as they touch it, withdraw it then praise and treat, then give the object back. Over time, start to carry out the exercise with higher value objects. Then move onto carrying out the exercise when the dog is more engrossed with the object. But always remember to keep it positive and that the removal of resources results in even more positive experience.

Another useful exercise to help against object guarding is to introduce the concept of sharing. This works particularly well with chew toys and the exercise involves you offering a chew toy to your dog, but keeping a hold of the other end yourself.
Allow your dog to enjoy the chew, but after a period, take it away for a spell then offer it back. Your dog soon understands that the resource is not his, but he is allowed to share it. Practice this with different people and objects.

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